Perla, the homey Italian restaurant in the West Village that didn’t quite take off in its new space on W. 4th St, has been rebranded as an all-day cafe called Fairfax. The intent is to be more of a casual hangout where one can linger at all hours, starting from the morning with a light breakfast and coffee and ending the night with a glass of wine and snacks. The layout, as a result, has opened up to assume more of a spacious, living room feel rather than the typical cramped West Village dining room. The menu also has been edited down to consist of a selection of small plates and snacks as to accommodate the different dining approach.
The concept works well for brunch, since most people that time of day are looking for basic, uncomplicated things like avocado toast and eggs, and the space has that essential West Village townhouse charm about it that people love. The food itself is solid and pleasing but not particularly memorable, which interestingly enough is the way I felt about the food at Perla. You’d come here not for the “best” anything but because you want to eat somewhere nice in the West Village. Anything with eggs will be fine, whereas the seasonal dish of half watermelon with lime and cilantro was strange. Stick to what’s familiar and order a carafe of wine while you’re at it, because you’ll be here for awhile, and that’s the way the folks at Fairfax want it.
234 W 4th St (between Charles St and W 10th St)
New York, NY 10014