My last review of Bunker was in its old space in Ridgewood, Queens. I complained a lot about the out-of-the-way location and the lack of AC, so when I heard that they had moved to a bigger space in Bushwick, I figured that things had probably improved dramatically and that I should pay them another visit.
So things are better in the new space. Although initially I was skeptical as I was having a sense of deja vu when our car passed by lots of ugly warehouses, making me question whether Bunker 2.0 would be any different. But once inside, I felt the cool air of the AC and knew that things had changed.
I was lukewarm about the banh xeo or Vietnamese pancake the first time around, but this time I was completely won over by the crispy, golden egg crepe. Nothing beats an omelette browned by the delicious fats of bacon and seasoned by little nuggets of shrimp. I would have swapped out our beef jerky papaya salad for two orders of this.
We took a gamble with a new dish and ordered the caramelized shrimp, which paid off tremendously. It had that kind of magic that can only be found when eating an Asian meat and rice dish with a spectacular sauce, like a messy and satisfying plate of chicken biryani or brown gravy loco moco. The one complaint I had about the dish was that they only gave you 5-6 pieces of shrimp for $25, which seemed a little measly and overpriced. But that didn’t take away from the joy I felt when I mixed in any rice I could find, even the garlic and tomato rice, in the lovely caramel sauce.
Dessert was a light and refreshing coconut tapioca pudding with different fruits like mango and jack fruit mixed in. It wasn’t mind blowing, but it was completely fitting for the summer season and the kitschy, tiki-bar setting that we were in. I’d be willing to make the trek back out here again. With AC, better service and an improved menu, it’s worth the trip.
99 Scott Ave (between Randolph St and Meserole St)
Brooklyn, NY 11237