Ops Pizza in Bushwick

the pizza making ops force

Does the city need another pizza restaurant? I think it can make room for Ops, a new spot in Bushwick that specializes in wood-fired oven pizza made with a sourdough crust. The pizzas are excellent, but the ambience is even better. Something about Ops feels very cozy and comfy, like you’re grabbing a bite to eat at your neighborhood bar, totally devoid of the chaos of a joint like Grimaldi’s or the slight sceney-ness of a Roberta’s.Read More

Tapas at La Vara in Cobble Hill

sunday supper at la vara

La Vara is one of those very “Brooklyn” restaurants where you feel like you’re surrounded by a diverse group of people who listen to NPR and volunteer at the local food co-op. On an early Sunday evening, there was the lesbian couple having a date night, the Millenials having a grown up day out, the locals taking their regular seats, and the bridge-and-tunnel Manhattan people (us) seeing how the hipper half live.Read More

Metta Plays with Fire in Fort Greene, Brooklyn

metta on a quiet corner in fort greene

There’s something primal and pure about cooking things over an open fire. You’re exposed to the elements, a slave to the whims of the fire, without modern appliances to tone things up or down. Food cooked in this manner is never perfect, always coming out a little blistered or charred, which seems like it could be frustrating for type-A chefs who want to completely control the outcome of the dish. So when I heard that Metta, a new restaurant in Fort Greene, would specialize in wood-fire cooking, and that it wouldn’t be a bbq or pizza restaurant, which we expect to be a little rough around the edges, I was intrigued to pay them a visit.Read More

Bessou, A Charming Japanese Eatery

the kabocha shakshuka – curried roasted kabocha, baked egg, miso tofu labne with thick-cut milk toast

At first glance, it might be easy to dismiss Bessou as just another cute Japanese restaurant. The brunch menu reads like the whimsical thoughts of a young schoolgirl with visions of Seuss and sugarplums in her head, whipping up concoctions like a green eggs and chaashuu sandwich or a matcha black sesame babka. It all sounds very fun, but maybe not all that substantial, like reading your way through the pages of a lightweight gossip mag. Highly instagrammable, but highly edible? I was a little skeptical.Read More

Pinch Chinese in Soho

saturday night at pinch chinese

When you hear that a former executive chef of Din Tai Fung is making soup dumplings in Soho, you run, not walk, to that restaurant as soon as possible. While the soup dumpling scene in New York is improving, nothing quite compares to Din Tai Fung, and since we’re not getting a NYC branch anytime soon, I figured this might be the next best thing. We dropped by Pinch Chinese, the restaurant in question, on a Saturday night, praying that there wouldn’t be epic waits for a dinner table.Read More