Checking In: Chumley’s, Still Good

It’s been nearly 6 months since I first had dinner at Chumley’s, the renovated speakeasy in the West Village. I was a big fan of its glamorous, old-school NYC vibe, and an even bigger fan of the thoughtful food menu. A recent check-in shows that things are still going swimmingly at Chumley’s. That intimate and exclusive environment remains, which makes it great for bringing out of town guests or a date to when you want a throwback to a different New York City.

beef tartare with hazelnut, confit tomato, ombra

rose harissa cod with sugar snap peas, panchetta pepato and smoked coconut jus

What struck me that evening were the changes to the menu, which has gone in an even more interesting direction than when I first came. It’s evolved into a worldly one with selections like the rose harissa cod and the huckleberry duck with beet kimchi, which were all excellent, by the way. I’d also recommend the soft shell crab and the beef tartare, but if you’re sticking to the theme of nostalgia, the fried chicken is still a good choice. It’s a culinary step forward for a classic establishment that respects the past but knows when to get with the times.

soft shell crab with ramps a la plancha, blonde morel and brown butter ponzu (must get)
huckleberry duck with beet kimchi and rutabaga (must get)
fried chicken with pickled mushroom, pearl onion and wild mushroom consomme

86 Bedford St (between Barrow and Grove St)
New York, NY 10014

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