I first heard about Fulgurances from a staff member at Greenpoint Fish and Lobster Company, one of my favorite seafood restaurants in Brooklyn. The conversation came about when he saw that I was sporting a Septime canvas bag. (The backstory around the Septime bag is that I was never successful in getting a reservation at the famed Septime restaurant in Paris, so as a consolation prize, we went to its sister restaurants Clamato and wine bar Septime la Cave instead and bought this bag in the process.) He mentioned that Aaron Rosenthal, formerly of Clamato, was doing a residency at Fulgurances Landromat, the American offshoot of a French chef residency program. The concept in a nutshell invites young chefs from all around the world for a three to six-month residency where they can flex their culinary muscles in a $80 5-course tasting menu format. I was all over that online booking website to see when his residency would start.
Fulgurances Laundromat is literally the site of an old laundromat refashioned as a cozy Brooklyn bistro. It’s in a buzzy intersection with other trendy Greenpoint restaurants like Paulie Gee’s, Di An Di and Chez Ma Tante. We sat at the bar and had some entertaining conversations with William, a very funny guy from the UK who was helping out Aaron in the kitchen. We also got to show Aaron the canvas bag, and he in turn shared some recommendations for our upcoming trip to Paris.
The first two courses were seafood ones, which I knew Aaron would kill, since the beet sashimi I had at Clamato was amazing. The first course was a Rhode Island smoked oyster with pickled peppers and sturgeon, followed by a mackerel with feta and watermelon consomme. The mackerel truly was fantastic, and I wish I had actually taken a picture of the dish instead of just devouring it.
The next course was my favorite. It was so visually beautiful, a cherry tomato tart made with tomatoes from upstate ny and served with mustard greens, and it tasted as good as it looked. Then the meal veered in a more Asian direction, a Berkshire pork collar in chicken jus served with bok choy, turnips and clams. French and Asian influences, that’s quite the trend these days, it seems.
Desserts were simple and rustic. First came scoops of honeycomb with an aromatic spritz on spoons, and then a pistachio financier with peach and raspberry. Again, it was a nod to a classical French dessert, but deconstructed in a more rustic, messier fashion. Aaron’s residency extends into January, so if you want to relive your days at Clamato or Septime, a night at Fulgurances is the way to do it.
Fulgurances – Landromat
132 Franklin St (between Greenpoint Ave and Milton St)
Brooklyn, NY 11222