Handmade Pasta at Faro in Bushwick

a grown up restaurant in bushwick

Add Faro to the long, growing list of Brooklyn restaurants that specialize in seasonal, farm-to-table ingredients. But aside from the familiar converted warehouse aesthetic and a hip clientele, Faro stands out from the rest with its focus on handmade pasta, and more importantly, its newly earned Michelin star. Neighborhood restaurants in Brooklyn are a dime a dozen, but Michelin-vetted ones are harder to come by. And an affordable one at that, in which most of the items on the menu are priced at $20 or below.

squid ink strozzapreti with olive oil poached skate wing and pumpkin seed pangrattato
agnolotti with peekytoe crab, whey and ricotta

Faro’s forte as you might expect is its pasta dishes, and none of them disappoint. The agnolotti with peekytoe crab and ricotta was lovely and understated, while the showy squid ink strozzapreti tooted its horn in a more forceful way that was completely justified. The latter dish was essentially two dishes in one, a Tudurken of sorts in which an entree-sized skate wing sits within a sea of fully portioned pasta. It’s bold and over the top and totally grabbed my attention as possibly the best pasta dish in 2016.

roasted beets with apple, pepita seeds and beef tallow
pastured beef tartare with kohlrabi, freekeh and sea urchin
chocolate cake for dessert

The starters, on the other hand, were underwhelming, and if I ever go back to Faro I would probably skip these and go straight for the pasta. The roasted beets were clean and refreshing, but nothing more, whereas the beef tartare, which was bizarrely wrapped up in a radish that completely dominated the flavor profile, was just a disappointment. The menu said that it had beef and uni in it, but I tasted neither. Faro makes no secret that its strong suits are pastas, and it’s pretty clear those are what earned them a Michelin star, so stay the course and order those carbs if you want your dinner to be a complete success.

436 Jefferson St (between Wyckoff Ave and St. Nicholas Ave)
Brooklyn, NY 11237
(718) 381-8201

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