Does the city need another pizza restaurant? I think it can make room for Ops, a new spot in Bushwick that specializes in wood-fired oven pizza made with a sourdough crust. The pizzas are excellent, but the ambience is even better. Something about Ops feels very cozy and comfy, like you’re grabbing a bite to eat at your neighborhood bar, totally devoid of the chaos of a joint like Grimaldi’s or the slight sceney-ness of a Roberta’s.
Ops’ signature crust is made with a sourdough starter, which, according to our server, is not a very common technique. I’m not sure why this technique isn’t more widespread, I’m sure there’s something difficult about the execution that I’m missing, but it definitely pays off with a more flavorful crust. Given that it was brunch, we ordered the Fury pizza, which had egg as one of the toppings, and we couldn’t have been happier with the outcome.
The menu is limited but well-edited, as the philosophy at Ops seems to be to do a few things very well. A radicchio salad with dried cherries and walnuts looked deceptively simple, but something about the brightness of the dressing and the nature of the produce itself only brought out the best. While dessert is not officially on the menu, there might be an off-menu crostini of ricotta, Meyer lemon and blood orange. Its more savory nature makes it a borderline appetizer, but that dreamy lemon cream is all the sweetness that you’ll need.
In most pizza places, you want to leave immediately after you’re done with your meal. But at Ops, you feel like ordering another glass of wine and hanging out for awhile. The staff is cool with that, and brunch is also a quieter time, so sample a few sips and let your weekend vibe draw out for another hour.
346 Himrod St (between Irving Ave and Wyckoff Ave)
Brooklyn, NY 11237