Steirereck in Vienna

steirereck in stadtpark

Steirereck the restaurant exists as a world in itself, enclosed within steely glass walls on the grounds of Stadtpark, in isolation from the city center. As the only restaurant in Vienna on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, impressively cracking the top 10 at No. 9, and with two Michelin stars, it truly is in a league of its own. A meal here is a privilege, and it certainly feels that way as you walk into its magical Narnia like quarters.

amuse bouche – sour cream soup and saffron
amuse bouche – dumplings with cottage cheese
amuse bouche – corn cracker, horse radish, carrots, white onion and smoked pork belly

The tasting menu doesn’t come cheap at 142 euros for 6 courses or 152 euros for 7. A less expensive option is the 4 course lunch set menu at 95 euros, +10 if you want to add in a cheese course. One thing to note is that there is no overlap between the two menus. The tasting menu reads more cutting edge, whereas the lunch set menu has more traditional items like wiener schnitzel and gulash available. The execution is top-notch either way, and there are plenty of culinary feats and thrills to be seen in the lunch dishes, particularly in Steirereck’s signature char with beeswax, yellow carrot, ‘pollen’ and sour cream.

trying to narrow down the choices for the bread cart
artichoke and veal kidney with radichio and sweet clover
‘schwarzauer’ mountain trout with melon, cucumber and etiolated pea shoots
veal ‘beusherl’ with chive dumpling
‘perlfisch’ with nasturtium root, elderberry and dill
venison shoulder blade with chervil root, chicoree and fennel
wiener schnitzel
glazed sturgeon with young marchfield artichokes, cape gooseberries and olive herb

Steirereck is not shy about letting you know that as one of the best it is capable of many things. As I mentioned earlier, the presentation definitely comes with an air of bravado and showmanship. Some restaurants might offer one or two bread options, but Steirereck offers a staggering 23, ranging from the simple country rustic to exotic loaves with pumpkin or lavendar. Each course arrives with a card listing all the ingredients, the origins and the preparation described in meticulous detail.

char with beeswax, part I
char with beeswax, part II
the finished product – char with beeswax, yellow carrot, ‘pollen’ and sour cream

The char dish is a two-part production in which the raw filet is immersed in a veil of hot beeswax, and then later the server, with much fanfare of tapping and breaking down the wax, reveals a delicately cooked fish. It’s worth calling out that Steirereck can do fish really well.

cheese cart, also endless
hemp seed-souffle with gooseberries, buttermilk and bitterorange blossom ice cream
crispy crepe with topaz apple, nutmeg and gin cornel cherries
apres-meal cookies and sweets

The cheese cart is just as elaborate as the bread. And of course, it’s not enough to just offer you the dessert you ordered, you must also have additional cookies and sweet treats at the end. There’s never a moment when you question what you are paying for, because you are reminded of and impressed by it, constantly. If someone were ever to ask did it feel like you were eating at the 9th best restaurant in the world, the only answer would be in the affirmative.


Steirereck
Am Heumarkt 2A, 1030 Wien, Austria
+43 1 7133168
Reservations here

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