New Nordic at Aska

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When a plate of lichen becomes one of the top dishes that you’ve had all year, something you devour rather than flick off, you know that the chef who came up with that idea is doing something exceptional. New Nordic cuisine, with all of its foraged pine needles and flowers, is easy to admire from a distance but up close it might be a different story. Not so with Chef Fredrik Berselius’ take at his newly reopened restaurant Aska, which offers one of the most accessible interpretations I’ve come across. The lichen tasted like real food, resting on top of a luscious slab of heavy, caramelized cream with a savory flavor that was almost uni-like, something that a fat cat would lap up greedily. We’re talking about a fungal algae that brings as much pleasure as does a decadent piece of sushi. To pull that off is very impressive.Read More