The very serious-minded staff at The Aviary, the NYC branch of Grant Achatz’s famed Chicago bar, described their high-end cocktails as performance art. But I saw them more as a comedy. Because that’s what it is when you have your guests blow bubbles into a drink named How Does Snoop Dogg Use Lemongrass?. Nothing really happened other than the fizz going flat after the initial huff and the rest of us laughing. I would hope for more than just a fit of giggles after paying $24 a drink. Or maybe the joke’s on us for paying that much money.