The Fulton by Jean-Georges at South Street Seaport

Despite all the good things that are happening at the new South Street Seaport, I still hate going there. Like with The Fulton, the new Jean-Georges seafood restaurant that opened earlier in the year. It got great reviews, but I literally made three prior reservations and cancelled all of them because I didn’t want to deal with going to the South Street Seaport. Finally, this past weekend, I actually kept my reservation, and I was very glad that I gave The Fulton a chance.

The walk from the Park Place subway station to The Fulton took 20 minutes. But we were committed. And the walk at night along the water was actually quite nice. Seeing the bridges and ships lit up put me in a festive mood, and the kids really enjoyed it. Speaking of kids, we did bring them, and to avoid any drama, we made a 5:30 dinner reservation, when The Fulton was relatively empty.

It always feels like the right move to order something raw and fresh at an acclaimed seafood restaurant. Maybe some crudos or a platter of oysters to start. Or what about the two of them combined as a tartare? I thought it would be sacrilege to mince up a perfectly fine oyster and mix it up with something else, but the successful execution of the sea trout and oyster tartare proved that it was okay to do this. The kick from the horseradish was exactly what was needed to ensure the trout didn’t get overshadowed by the oyster, and there was a perfect amount of salt to bring out the flavors in both. You could also spoon some of it on top of some toasted bread like a beef tartare, which again, is not something traditionally done, but it was a fantastic idea.

Just the name longevity noodles sounds like a winner, especially when you know that there are lobsters in there. And I felt very happy and prosperous slurping the fancy lo mein noodles in a delicate ginger broth. They went the extra mile and lightly breaded and fried the lobster meat beforehand, which made the lobster even more enticing. The price for happiness comes steep at $57, but it was very much worth it.

Usually when something has “MP” aka “market price” next to it, it’s dangerous. You’re guaranteed to pay something exorbitant and totally regret it. But our curiosity about the MP next to the whole black sea bass en croute was piqued, and we had to find out what a baked fish pastry tasted like. Everything about this dish was so impressive. The intricate fish scales that were etched into the dough were so beautiful and looked like artistic flourishes on a ceramic piece. When it came time to serve the fish, The Fulton brought a professional over to carefully plate it all for us. He left the golden pastry shell intact in one piece, whereas if I had done it, it would have been a hot, slashed mess. The bass was delicious, but ultimately I don’t love the idea of eating a fish pot pie. I like eating my filet meat free of shell.

There was a LOT of fish meat in the en croute, so we were pretty full by dessert time. But of course, there’s always room for a nice chocolate mousse and some ice cream.

The restaurant itself is a huge, bi-level space, and there are wonderful views of the seaport and the Manhattan Bridge all around. So despite the annoying trip to get here, you’ll want to undock for awhile at The Fulton South Street Seaport.

The Fulton by Jean-Georges
At the South Street Seaport
89 South St
New York, NY 10038
(212) 838-1200

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