By the time we were sitting down for dinner at Kadeau, I was starting to get tasting menu fatigue. The prior two nights were tasting menu dinners that lasted more than 3 hours, and I didn’t know if I had it in me for another one. But I’m glad that I made the time for Kadeau, a two Michelin Star fine dining restaurant in Copenhagen. I felt like I had seen a lot of new things over the past two days. I had eaten some leathery beets, chocolate chip cookies that were completely vegan and a pigeon covered in a pastry shell. And yet Kadeau still held my interest and introduced me to new things, which really speaks to the skill level at this amazing restaurant.
Out of all the fine dining restaurants I tried in Copenhagen, I felt the most comfortable at Kadeau. The vibe was a good balance of formal but relaxed, and the flavors were very inventive but accessible. The restaurant recently moved into a new space, which reminded me of a modern Danish country house. Kadeau does source a lot of ingredients from the garden and the island of Bornholm, so it was all very fitting. Sometimes there will be times during a New Nordic meal where I will acknowledge how interesting the food was, but I wouldn’t ever seek it out again because it was a little too out there. Nothing at Kadeau ever tasted like that.
There were many highlights during the meal, and I was impressed every step of the way. The first course was a Danish pork aged 2 years marinated in black currant and jam. It looked like a jerky and a prosciutto, and I loved how beautifully glazed it was. The next course was visually stunning, some burnt beets served in an emulsion made of mussels. They were served on jet black skewers, like a Norwegian version of yakitori. The raw courses that followed were more subdued, and then another stunner came in the form of strawberries and tomatoes. The technique of pickling and drying things out seems to be a common New Nordic thing, and these strawberries at Kadeau were like the best example of that.
The shrimp from Skane was another highlight. I can’t ever resist anything in cream and caviar, so this one was a win. Probably the peak presentation of the night was the farmed Norwegian salmon. A staff member came by to show us the beautifully shellacked salmon fillet and then served us tableside. There was a whole story behind it, salmon that was sustainably farmed and smoked using a technique of firing embers on a slag of cherrywood. It was all very engaging. The icelandic sea urchin was so dreamy, you can just tell by looking at the fresh, glistening orange uni that it was going to be the best. I would say the desserts were more on the interesting side. Kadeau isn’t into pretty florettes and frosting, the desserts were more stripped down, and the purpose seemed to be more about showcasing local ingredients than decorating skill. Now I was really maxed out. I did not have any more room for another epic 4 hour meal, and I’m glad I ended things on a very high note at Kadeau.
Wildersgade 10B, 1408 København, Denmark
+45 33 25 22 23
Make reservations here.